Makansutra is a food company based in Singapore that promotes the joy of eating without selling food. A few days ago, K.F. Seetoh founder of Makansutra in Singapore was in Jakarta for a press conference promoting the upcoming World Street Food Congress (WFSC).

Alas the WSFC is still 10 weeks away and we happened to be in Singapore. Hence, recommended by our foodie friends we went to Geylang looking for real food, staying away from the glossy ads of Orchard Road’s establishments.

Geylang, a 15 minute taxi ride from Orchard Road, is a neighborhood more famous for being a red light district than a culinary spot.

Ben Groundwater, a globetrotter on a shoestring, who explored the Geylang area found it a real surprise: “It seems fitting that Singapore's seediest locale would have some ridiculously good food. There aren't many red- light districts in the world that have more restaurants than sleazy clubs but these guys take their eating seriously.”

Before heading to Lorong 9, it is a handy fact to know that in Geylang, some of the even number lorongs (lanes) are the red light sides, whereas the odd numbered lorongs have all the good foods.

Restaurants such as Sia Kee Duck Rice, Tanjong Rhu Pau & Confectionery, and Heng Kee House of Steamed Fish have tempting rich foods, but we have planned on visiting Singapore’s famous “Lorong 9 Beef Kway Teow.”

Lorong 9 Beef Kway Teow eatery that has been in the area for decades is always packed during eating hours, especially dinnertime. That was why we went there at 11pm, which is considered off peak, yet there were several tables occupied, especially those by the street and walkway.

A middle-aged server directed us to our table. She barely spoke English, hence we ended up using hand signals to ask about the details of each dish and also to order our food. It took a while until we managed to place our order. We waited patiently for our food, hoping that we didn’t order bizarre foods.

Luckily our order turned out to be their signature dish, the Beef Kway Teow, flat rice noodles served with tender slices of beef in black bean sauce. Along with an appetizer we also tried the Stir Fried Broccoli and Mushroom.

Upon serving the food, the efficient attendant had our bills ready for payment. The food was well priced compared to other food spots around Singapore. Beef Kway Teow was priced at S$6, a very good value considering the generous amount of beef on our plate.

To be honest, at first sight the Beef Kway Teow did not look like it had any Kway Teow, because it was rich in black bean gravy with thin-layered beef covering the top. After eating the succulent beef, we started to see the kway teow at the bottom in short separated pieces.

The food was simply delectable! Especially when eating it with pickled chopped green chili to add a spicy touch to the dish.

For those who feel that one portion is not enough, the place also serves other dishes, such as seafood and a number of tofu variations.

Eating in Geylang is a culinary voyage, even to seasoned eaters at Makansutra. They keep discovering new eating spots and seeing older places closed down, believing that Geylang is always a wonder for food lovers.

Click here for a recipe of beef kway teow

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Images: WSFC, Chris Howey/Shutterstock, Omar Niode Foundation