A foodie friend in San Francisco recommended Banana Leaf Apolo, an eatery at Little India in Singapore. “Go for the fish head curry, that’s what they are famous for,” he said.

“No reservation needed, just walk-in,” the voice at the other end advised us when we called the restaurant to ask whether booking is required.

We arrived at Banana Leaf Apolo’s Race Course Road branch at 8.00 PM wondering how to get into a place already filled 200 people, mostly international visitors. Surprisingly we were seated within minutes on a long communal table, shoulder to shoulder with other guests.

Glancing to our left we saw a couple facing a big bowl of fish curry head. The red snapper fish head, was deep in shiny yellowish red sauce full of herbs and spices. Chen Jingwen in Soshiok Soshiok.com a guide to food and dining in Singapore wrote that the reddish curry contained more than 20 kinds of ingredients, such as the assortment of spices that play a supporting role to the chilies and sour tamarind. A poster in front of the restaurant describes the dish as “a taste of heritage.”

Although tempted, we decided to have smaller portions of Indian cuisines. Anand, our server, took an order without taking any note. He just smiled when we asked whether he would remember Apolo chicken 65, baigan bartha, briyani rice, garlic naan, fresh coconut and lime juice.

Almost 20 minutes went by, our foods have not arrived while others who came in later have begun to enjoy theirs. We were getting hungry, gobbling the papadum, a crispy flat bread, and watched how incoming guests stood in line waiting to get in.

The Banana Leaf Apolo has been in business for 40 years, serving southern and northern Indian cuisines with a philosophy that Indian cooking is art at its best. In India, since time immemorial, serving food to others is believed to be a service to humanity.

Apparently while some foods were readily available, ours have to be cooked. Anand reassured us that the food would be out soon. He did not disappoint, one by one came according to our wish.

Most reviews of the eatery mentioned about the banana leaf where food is served, the leaf was actually placed on top of a green rectangle plate. What interested us was not the banana leaf, but the pewters that made classic presentation.

Apolo chicken 65 was the most delicious chicken dish we have ever tasted. Nobody seems to know how the name chicken 65 came from but it is an all time favorite of Indian food.

It was fried lightly brown, crispy-crunchy outside and succulent and juicy inside. The chicken was first marinated in masala (a mixture of spices) and eventually deep-fried.

The leaves scattered were also fried and zesty hot. We paired the Apolo chicken 65 with tasty yellowish briyani rice.

The garlic naan, a dough sprinkled with freshly chopped garlic and baked was a perfect companion for baigan bartha a dish of mashed eggplant, seasoned with cumin and onion.

The fresh coconut was a treat, as we do not often see a whole coconut, served for the water only, in such a busy restaurant.

Aside from the fresh coconut and lime juice, Banana Leaf Apolo has an impressive selection of red and white wine. The list includes Deinhard Green Label Riesling from Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany that won a bronze medal in International Wine Challenge UK. The Kara Bay Central Otago Pinot Noir is sourced from vineyards in New Zealand's Central Otago region. Also on the list is Rosso Leggero, a Cabernet Sauvignon from Maule Valley, Chile.

Although we were famished we took time to relish the world-class cuisines. The hassle to get seats at Banana Leaf Apolo was very much worth it. We now understand why it is such a popular place for many, including our San Francisco based foodie friend.

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Images: Omar Niode Foundation