Our disappointment ran deep receiving an email from Lisa Virgiano the founder of Azanaya: Thank you for the registration. However, we regret to inform that you are in our waiting list no 20 for Chompagro: February 15. But shall despair not prevail! Because we promise to inform you if there is any available seat after Monday, February 9.

Azanaya, an event planning and services company inspired by true passion of Indonesian food culture, was promoting Chompagro, a gastronomy event series dedicated to establish direct networks between gourmands and responsible specialty producers from all around Indonesia.

As a collaborative creation by the Indonesia Coffee Project, Warung Kopi Sruput and Azanaya, Chompagro emphasizes on territory of taste approach in coffee as its focal discourse of taste. The first event, limited to 40 seats, was Artisanal Lombok, sold out in less than 24 hours after its announcement.

More than a year ago we wrote about “Lombok scenic view, spicy food and mythical tale,” hence we were keen on repeating the taste experience and acquiring more knowledge about Lombok food.

 Photo: Dudarev Mikhail/Shutterstock

True to Lisa’s promise, we received another email and anxiously read what her decision was: Congratulations! Your Chompagro registration is now officially confirmed because previous participants make cancellation. Please kindly let us know if you are still interested in joining this event. 

Elated, like other participants we arrived early on event day,  under torrential rain. The venue, Warung Kopi Sruput, a popular coffee shop owned by Chef Ragil Imam Wibowo was transformed into a cozy classroom and feasting zone.

Lisa Virgiano and Chef Ragil introduced the concept of Chompagro followed by a presentation on Developing Specialty Taste of Arabica Rinjani and Its Challenges by Maryam Rodja of Baraka Nusantara.

While sipping manually brewed specialty Arabica Rinjani we learned how Marjam Rodja and Reman Murandi started social entrepreneur movement in Sembalun Village, Lombok. Working with local farmers, Muhammad Sahidul Wathan and Edison Sembahulun, Baraka Nusantara revitalized abandoned coffee fields located in a beautiful valley, surrounded by mountains. They named their flag product Kopi Pahlawan (Coffee of Heroes), hoping that the coffee and the farmers would be the heroes in increasing the welfare of a region once known as coffee, garlic and mandarin producer. Andra Fembriarto beautifully captured their efforts in a video clip here. 

We paired the warm Kopi Pahlawan with Poteng Jajetujak, sweet savory sticky rice topped with fermented sticky rice naturally colored by star gooseberry leaves.

It was almost lunchtime but we just could not pass an equally interesting presentation by Tri Sakti Yogantoro, a financial specialist turned restaurateur. Yoga established Sate Rembiga in Jakarta, an eatery with a selection of Sasak tribe food on its menu. He fluently explained all ingredients for the day’s lunch including Sangga garlic, cabai asap (smoked chili pepper) and terasi (shrimp paste).

One ingredient that he talked about was not on the menu: Kangkung Lombok. It is a type of watercress that has been awarded a geographical indication, a sign used on products that have a specific geographical origin and possess qualities or a reputation that are due to that origin. Kangkung Lombok grows on the banks of flowing rivers and comes with long and crunchy stalks.

It was then time to stand in line to scoop the Lombok delicacies:

SOUP

Ares Bumbu Beleg

Stem from pisang kapok (plantain) cooked in bird’s eye chili, galangal, turmeric, candlenut, coriander, pepper, shallots and Lombok garlic.

MAINS

Sembalun, East Lombok unhulled specialty red rice.

Sate Rembiga

West Lombok specialty grilled beef satay with spices Sate Ikan Tanjung Mackerel grilled satay with turmeric, candlenuts, and red chilies paste.

Ayam Rarang

East Lombok specialty smoked free-range chicken in smoked chilies paste.

Sate Ikan Tanjung

Mackerel grilled satay with turmeric, candlenuts, and red chilies paste.

Sayur Ebatan

West Lombok specialty braised eggplants, star fruit leaves, and beef in coconut milk and candlenuts broth.

All the stories about how Lombok farmers preserve their products and food ingredients from the area stimulated our appetite. While enjoying the tasty, succulent and spicy lunch, we thought about the farmers who meticulously produced the ingredients and the chefs who lovingly prepared the dishes without chemical flavor enhancers and preservatives.

Baraka Nusantara documented the event to include guests’ appraisal to be sent directly to Sembalun so that farmers, food activists, and local authorities can watch it together to inspire them and to build territory assurance and appreciation.

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Images: Omar Niode Foundation, unless otherwise noted.