Marking the geographical divide between the Asian and Australian environments, the Wallacea islands are a fascinating outpost of flora, fauna… and food. Listen in on to this captivating exploration of the coffee and coconuts culture of Gorontalo, Sulawesi.

The blurb in the program book for the 2015 Ubud Food Festival made us giddy with excitement. Proud mixed with apprehension as we were given a chance to speak at this prestigious festival, yet wonder whether anybody would want to listen to what we have to say.

After all, the Ubud Food Festival held from 5 to 7 June 2015 was a world-class culinary event that showcased Indonesia’s diverse cuisine, innovative chefs and extraordinary local produce.

We were scheduled to speak at the Food Forum, where culinary experts shared the secrets of their success and enrich our understanding of food in all its forms, from the farm to the plate.

In addition to the Food Forum, the Ubud Food Festival also arranged for Cooking Demonstrations, one hour demonstrations of a chef’s technical prowess and culinary passion; Workshop and Cooking Masterclass Sessions; Special Events where chefs put their best plate forward for personal tasting pleasure; Night Markets & Music; Food Tours; Book Launches and Film Programs that screened popular food films.

Our session discussed Coconuts and Coffee in Borderline Islands, mostly in Gorontalo. The talk was not about the best coffee or the best coconut based cuisines, but rather how people in the area use and perceive the two commodities.

Gorontalo on the island of Sulawesi is situated on the Wallacea, a transition zone between Asia and Australia. It is a relatively untouched paradise boasting great aquatic life, lakes, forts, and underwater reefs as well as scenic views and some interesting food tales.

 Donald Wahani

When you arrive in or depart from Gorontalo, you will be presented with duduli; a traditional welcome and farewell snack made from glutinous rice, coconut milk, palm sugar and crushed peanuts.

In Indonesia, the coconut tree has as many uses as there are days in the year. It plays an important role in customs and folklore. Ipong Niaga and Rosyid Azhar, a researcher and a journalist respectively informed us that the first human being, according to legend in Gorontalo, is not Adam, but Bebe, who was created from a coconut seedling.

There are 735 villages in Gorontalo and more than 10 of them are named after coconut, or bongo, as they say in Gorontalo. Some of these villages are: Bongo, Bongo Nol, Bongo Tua, Bongohulawa, Bongopini, Bongoime, Bongomeme, Tabongo and Lombongo.

Coconuts are always present in rituals involving the cycle of life. A baby has a ceremony with haircuts carried out by family members who put the hair in a coconut and hang it outdoor. Coconut leaves are also part of decorations in coming of age rituals, marriage and death.

 William Wongso

Most traditional foods in Gorontalo are coconut based, either cooked with hulango bongo (coconut milk) or yinulo (home made coconut oil). Coconuts are useful for condiments, appetizers, snacks, main courses, desserts, and drinks.

Making coconut oil is an elaborate process. To make 500 cc of tasty yinulo, press coconut milk out of 10 coconuts. Boil for about 3 hours with constant stirring for distinct savory taste and smell.

Coconut milk is pressed from grated coconut produced by using dudangata, a traditional coconut grater. One sits on a wooden stool connected to a rod with coconut grater. The grated coconut has a different texture compared to those produced by modern coconut grater.

 Taechit Tananatornanutra

The most well-known Gorontalo dish is binthe biluhuta, a traditional corn soup made from corn kernels, grated coconut, shrimp or tuna, lemon basil leaves, shallot, salt and lime juice. It can be made into a vegetarian dish by omitting the shrimp or tuna. Binthe biluhuta is to be included in a recipe book: A Grain A Day, published by the International Maize and Wheat Improvement Center (CIMMYT).

There is a saying in Gorontalo: hiyambola dudangata debo mohangato, even a coconut grater requests a reward, referring to corruption in society, showing how omnipresent coconuts are in society.

Coffee cultivation in Gorontalo stems from cultuurstelsel (enforcement planting) during the Dutch colonial era. According to Hasanuddin in his book “Gorontalo, the challenges and social, political and economic policies of colonial Dutch” (in Indonesian) the colonial government in the 19th century invited the King of Gorontalo, Mohamad Iskandar Pui Monoarfa to Ternate to sign an agreement of coffee cultivation in Gorontalo. The agreement was signed on 9 January 1828 and the King of Gorontalo ordered coffee planting in his jurisdictions.

Coffee houses are now abundant in Gorontalo where people from all walk of life meet to channel their views and aspirations about politics and current affairs. Government officials discuss policies and activists introduce initiatives to street vendors, activists, pensioners, business people and active civil servants. Most often popular topics brought by important resource persons are broadcasted by a local radio, through an interactive program, questions and answers sessions with listeners all over Gorontalo.

The coffee selection varies, from Kopi Pinogu, harvested in the middle of a national park, to coffee mixed with dried rice, and cinnamon, or coffee with ginger.

Do not expect the coffee houses to look like cozy outlets of international coffee shop chain. They are very modest watering hole with wooden chairs and tables with coffee served in cheap clear cups.

 Syam Terrajana

Most of coffee houses owners are related. An example given by Syam Terrajana, a journalist in Gorontalo is Balukia Waroeng Kopi owned by 70-year old Yusuf Otta. Three out of his five children own different coffee houses in the area

While there are more than 10 villages in Gorontalo named Bongo (coconut), there is only one village named kopi (coffee). There is however, a saying related to coffee: Mamotowuli ju, wanu woluo huduhudu mai kopi lo polondulo. ( I ) will leave, when coffee is served. Serving coffee to guests, called Kopi lo Polondulo in Gorontalo is a hint that it is time to end a visit or an event.

 Debby Mano

Apparently our concern whether audience would want to hear what we had to say was unfounded. Although there are many interesting events at the Ubud Food Festival, guided by fellow blogger Bayu Amus, our session was well attended with a number of questions and interests to visit Gorontalo.

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